We're home.
We have all our luggage. We got through the customs' Ag inspection with no problem. They hand searched all of our luggage. We did not mention we had cavorted with Mark Jensen in Iringa. Mark and Ibrahim are the directors of the Ag Project at Tumaini.
We are safe and sound and glad to be home, having loved every moment of the trip. Judy's daughter Carmen and grand-daughter, Dan and Julie Rogness, Pastor Will, kids Carly and Chris and sister Bev met us at the airport. It was great!
By all means, be sure to ask to see the photos. Just remember to first ask, "HOW MANY?"
Ken
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Arusha and Kilimanjaro International Airport
Generally we all slept well and arose ready to get packed and be gone. Yesterday, minus the Bibis we went on one last shopping trip. The street vendors are impressively aggressive. We bumped into Jean from MGLSS, who told us husband Marv carries 200 TSH coins just to give them so they will go away. As I think of it, the 20 cents is a bargain! She also said that this being the end of the peak season, there would be some bargains available. I dunno....
So, we had breakfast and packed up by 10 AM. We did not know we had paid for late checkout at 5 PM. Oh well, TIA.
Chui (“Leopard” in Swahili) has been our driver the past couple days. He picked us up and delivered us to Pepe, an Italian-Arab restaurant in Arusha. The waiter said we should just stick to the Italian side of the menu. Next time you are in Arusha, I highly recommend eating there. Godwin Mbogo who owns the service met us there and bought us lunch, a very nice treat. He told us about the safari service, the economy, the religion of the Maasai. I would call it nature worship, which I know has a specific name. Regardless, it is quite simple for Maasai to switch to Christianity.
Ultimately, lunch was over. We drove past the new Lutheran Medcial Center, soon to replace Selian, then on to Kilimanjaro. We have few hours to wait before the next to last leg of our trip and home.
Naturally, our thoughts have turned to home and loved ones. We remain hopeful that we will see Sandy’s bag before the next Traveling Pants movie. Who knows? TIA!
Ken
PS We promised the manager of the New Safari Hotel we would do a happy dance when we got the bag back. At Kili International, Sandy went to check - it had arrived! She did the happy dance for us all. And I suppose that “all’s well that ends well”!
So, we had breakfast and packed up by 10 AM. We did not know we had paid for late checkout at 5 PM. Oh well, TIA.
Chui (“Leopard” in Swahili) has been our driver the past couple days. He picked us up and delivered us to Pepe, an Italian-Arab restaurant in Arusha. The waiter said we should just stick to the Italian side of the menu. Next time you are in Arusha, I highly recommend eating there. Godwin Mbogo who owns the service met us there and bought us lunch, a very nice treat. He told us about the safari service, the economy, the religion of the Maasai. I would call it nature worship, which I know has a specific name. Regardless, it is quite simple for Maasai to switch to Christianity.
Ultimately, lunch was over. We drove past the new Lutheran Medcial Center, soon to replace Selian, then on to Kilimanjaro. We have few hours to wait before the next to last leg of our trip and home.
Naturally, our thoughts have turned to home and loved ones. We remain hopeful that we will see Sandy’s bag before the next Traveling Pants movie. Who knows? TIA!
Ken
PS We promised the manager of the New Safari Hotel we would do a happy dance when we got the bag back. At Kili International, Sandy went to check - it had arrived! She did the happy dance for us all. And I suppose that “all’s well that ends well”!
Maasai Girls Lutheran Secondary School Graduation
Wow! This was special! And I could add, just as long as it was special. Longer if you don’t know a speck of Swahili, even with our own private translators, each girls who were Form 5 or 6, the step before college entrance.
We arrived about an hour early for the Sunday service, so we had a guided tour of the school. They have a great computer lab and science lab. Some of the girls have never even turned on an electric switch of any kind before they arrive.
Soon we went to the beautiful chapel, the roof in the shape of a Maasai warrior’s shield. We awaited the Bishop. He was actually on campus and we had greeted him. After an hour or so, following the entrance of the choir and with great pageantry, the graduates in their full Maasai regalia marched in, with the bishop equally adorned, including mitre.
There was much singing, a long sermon and the usual two hour service. We loved it.
We ate delicious lunch with other VIP. We ate leisurely, catered to in a special class room, decorated just for us, so we were a little rushed to get to the auditorium (which, as in any good secondary school, doubled as the lunch room). The girls treated us to a rhythmic dance as they entered, with more great singing. There were a few talent numbers with subsets of the girls forming the ensembles, with rhythm and singing. Then there was a long list of awards for various achievements. After the awards, there were six speakers. The bishop spoke a reasonably short time. I thought that was a good sign, since surely it would be bad manners for subordinates to speak longer than he did. But each of the next five speakers spoke longer than the previous.
One highlight, or lowlight, depending on perspective of course, was when my chair collapsed underneath me. There was a silent scramble to rescue me, without a beat missed by the speaker. I was much less sleepy after that.
Finally, the ceremony well celebrated, all went home. I don’t think I can adequately describe the spectacle of the beauty of these people and their costumes, so see the photos!
Ken
We arrived about an hour early for the Sunday service, so we had a guided tour of the school. They have a great computer lab and science lab. Some of the girls have never even turned on an electric switch of any kind before they arrive.
Soon we went to the beautiful chapel, the roof in the shape of a Maasai warrior’s shield. We awaited the Bishop. He was actually on campus and we had greeted him. After an hour or so, following the entrance of the choir and with great pageantry, the graduates in their full Maasai regalia marched in, with the bishop equally adorned, including mitre.
There was much singing, a long sermon and the usual two hour service. We loved it.
We ate delicious lunch with other VIP. We ate leisurely, catered to in a special class room, decorated just for us, so we were a little rushed to get to the auditorium (which, as in any good secondary school, doubled as the lunch room). The girls treated us to a rhythmic dance as they entered, with more great singing. There were a few talent numbers with subsets of the girls forming the ensembles, with rhythm and singing. Then there was a long list of awards for various achievements. After the awards, there were six speakers. The bishop spoke a reasonably short time. I thought that was a good sign, since surely it would be bad manners for subordinates to speak longer than he did. But each of the next five speakers spoke longer than the previous.
One highlight, or lowlight, depending on perspective of course, was when my chair collapsed underneath me. There was a silent scramble to rescue me, without a beat missed by the speaker. I was much less sleepy after that.
Finally, the ceremony well celebrated, all went home. I don’t think I can adequately describe the spectacle of the beauty of these people and their costumes, so see the photos!
Ken
Zanzibar and the Mnarani Resort
What a nice diversion from the rest of our journey! We could nearly forget the poverty of Zanzibar and the rest of Tanzania. The resort is on the north end of the island. The tides carry the water a long way out, so we enjoyed both waves crashing on the shore and silence when the tide was out. We could walk far onto the ocean floor and into the shallow surf to frolic and bounce in the waves. Great body surfers we’re not.
The natural aquarium deserves mention. Well, maybe not. The basin is filled through porous rock, so as the tide comes in, the pond fills and vice versa. They had some sea turtles, green turtles I think, vegetarian and hawks bill, omnivorous. The injured turtles and young trapped in fishing nets are rehabilitated and released per a government program. There was a python, small, a mere six feet and a monitor lizard, not even cute, The biology lesson was interesting. Have you ever heard the term “tourist trap”? Fortunately, the other four relaxed on the beach. I wont’ tell you who was taken, but there initials are Bob, Sandy and Ken.
We relaxed and enjoyed the poisons of choice. Bob re-introduced me to Tequila Sunrise, a pleasure long forgotten. The food was fine. We basked in the sun and starlight while we could. Even around a campfire. And drinks with ice. Sigh.
Saturday was a long day. We were picked up right on schedule by Zamir and Suleman. We toured Stone Town and the Anglican Cathedral on the site of the slave auction block. The great explorer, David Livingston, was instrumental in ending slavery in Africa. His heart is buried under a tree and his preserved body was carried to Zanzibar, then transported accompanied by two of his African friends devoted to him. We saw the sights, recorded electronically generously.
After lunch, we headed for the airport, where we were informed, ironically, that we needed some paper document with the e-ticket numbers. Now there’s a paradox. It took an hour and a half of the two we had reserved for the airport, so now we know why! Even our guide showed some nonverbal signs of stress. But we made it! From Zanzibar, a short hop to Dar es Salaam, and a trip around the check-in again to a gate upstairs, then down the steps, onto the tarmac and back on the same plane! It was actually a tight schedule and the plane was waiting for us. Fortunately, our baggage had been checked through. Unfortunately, I was stopped at the last checkpoint.
“Do you have a scissors?” I replied no, of course, Then I remembered my first aid kit. Duh. “You will have to check it.” So I ran to the baggage check-in, pleaded for help (in English). I knew my pack or myself wouldn’t make the flight. I ran back up to the gate, where Birdie was waiting for me. Now neither of us would make it. Fortunately, the attendant said, “They are waiting for you.” The same flight attendant that greeted us onto the plane in Zanzibar said, “Welcome back!”
I wish I could just end the story there, since the flight was uneventful, our guide was waiting at Kilimanjaro airport and we were all glad to be on the ground. But one of our bags did not make it. Surprisingly, it wasn’t my backpack; it was Sandy’s suitcase, with clothes and gifts. Hope for its reappearance is on the wane, since we will leave tomorrow evening. We were thankful to arrive in Arusha safely, at a nice hotel. Sometimes it’s a little thing that bites the hardest.
On being a doctor in a foreign land
On being a doctor in a foreign land.
One of the DIRA staff came to me with a dilemma. His younger brother, from Idunda, has had recurrent abscesses of the scalp every few months for the past eight years. The older brother has a detailed record of the doctors notes each time this has happened, seven or more times in eight years. Some resolve spontaneously. One was large enough to require wide drainage and packing. Still they recur. They have mostly been on the scalp, but have occurred on the face or temple as well. Some have been incised and drained, the treated with a variety of antibiotics, including erythromycin, metronidazole and ciprofloxacin. Typically, when he gets them, they are accompanied by fever and lymphadenopathy. Sometimes he has delirium, sometimes headache with scintillating scotomata. There have been no neuro defects, rare vomiting. He temporarily loses weight which e regains as these improve. Past skull x-rays have showed no periosteal reaction.
On exam, he is alert and ambulatory but uncomfortable. The mass is warm, not hot, but 10 cm in diameter and moderately tender. It is fluctuant but not pointing. It is in the sagittal line. He has small, tender lymph nodes in the posterior cervical chains bilaterally; none in the anterior chains or angle of the jaw. TMs are clear, throat is clear. Speech is clear. Face is symmetrical; biceps, triceps and grip strength are equal.
My differential is limited: this is an abscess. Why the recurrences? He has had at least the three antibiotic course noted. I do not know if he has been checked for HIV or TB, but these are so common here it is hard to imagine they have not been. Could he have some other immune compromise? Seems like a long indolent course for malignancy.
I spoke with Dr.Saga, the Chief of Staff of Ilula. He appreciated my thoughts and himself thought nutrition might explain the recurrences.
After I&D here in Iringa, he was doing well. The attending has offered a referral to Dar es Salaam. But I think Dr. Saga is correct that it is worth anothe shot with antibiotics first and multivitamins.
Here is a dilemma. He lives in Idunda. He is married, has five children, and like most of the people there, has no job and no money to pay for the referral or even antibiotics. for referral, patients like him require an escort to provide supportive care and talk to the doctors. His brother would have to ask for time off. Essentially, the brother was asking for money. At Ilula, they have a charity fund. To avoid fraud, they check on the finances of the patients who say they cannot pay. Thus, when we get home, I will start a fund for use at the discretion of Bega kwa Bega and consultation by Dr. Saga or other medical staff at Ilula. It is all I can think of to do.
Ken
One of the DIRA staff came to me with a dilemma. His younger brother, from Idunda, has had recurrent abscesses of the scalp every few months for the past eight years. The older brother has a detailed record of the doctors notes each time this has happened, seven or more times in eight years. Some resolve spontaneously. One was large enough to require wide drainage and packing. Still they recur. They have mostly been on the scalp, but have occurred on the face or temple as well. Some have been incised and drained, the treated with a variety of antibiotics, including erythromycin, metronidazole and ciprofloxacin. Typically, when he gets them, they are accompanied by fever and lymphadenopathy. Sometimes he has delirium, sometimes headache with scintillating scotomata. There have been no neuro defects, rare vomiting. He temporarily loses weight which e regains as these improve. Past skull x-rays have showed no periosteal reaction.
On exam, he is alert and ambulatory but uncomfortable. The mass is warm, not hot, but 10 cm in diameter and moderately tender. It is fluctuant but not pointing. It is in the sagittal line. He has small, tender lymph nodes in the posterior cervical chains bilaterally; none in the anterior chains or angle of the jaw. TMs are clear, throat is clear. Speech is clear. Face is symmetrical; biceps, triceps and grip strength are equal.
My differential is limited: this is an abscess. Why the recurrences? He has had at least the three antibiotic course noted. I do not know if he has been checked for HIV or TB, but these are so common here it is hard to imagine they have not been. Could he have some other immune compromise? Seems like a long indolent course for malignancy.
I spoke with Dr.Saga, the Chief of Staff of Ilula. He appreciated my thoughts and himself thought nutrition might explain the recurrences.
After I&D here in Iringa, he was doing well. The attending has offered a referral to Dar es Salaam. But I think Dr. Saga is correct that it is worth anothe shot with antibiotics first and multivitamins.
Here is a dilemma. He lives in Idunda. He is married, has five children, and like most of the people there, has no job and no money to pay for the referral or even antibiotics. for referral, patients like him require an escort to provide supportive care and talk to the doctors. His brother would have to ask for time off. Essentially, the brother was asking for money. At Ilula, they have a charity fund. To avoid fraud, they check on the finances of the patients who say they cannot pay. Thus, when we get home, I will start a fund for use at the discretion of Bega kwa Bega and consultation by Dr. Saga or other medical staff at Ilula. It is all I can think of to do.
Ken
The Cooking School and Lunch at Peter's
Cooking School
Sister Seraphina welcomed us during a busy class session with the students busy making delectable items. They were making cakes or biscuits, which we would call cookies and some sweet rolls with jelly centers, on order from some lucky person.
We were able to buy pasta and ragu (spaghetti sauce) for our dinner tomorrow evening at the Bega kwa Bega apartments. More later.
At the cooking school, Sister Seraphina teaches young women life skills and English. She teaches housekeeping skills and, of course, Italian cooking. She immigrated to Tanzania 48 years ago and has stayed all these years, having taught thousands of girls. They come to the school under contract. That is, in return for her two-year training course, they work for their sponsors for two years (or longer by choice).
We bought some samosas, the real thing, and a jelly roll as well as the pasta and ragu. We thought they might taste good for lunch at Peter and Grace’s home. We bought some of the cookies as well for the party tomorrow evening.
Lunch at Peter’s
Peter is our bus driver. He has been with us every day but one, when he was needed to work on repairing something on the bus. His wife’s name is Grace and daughter is Clara. Grace’s niece Joyce lives with them too because her father died and they have taken her in since Grace’s sister cannot afford to raise her. Clara is seven; I’d guess Joyce is 12 or 13. Both are quite shy.
Judy has been sitting in the front seat next to Peter to reduce bus sickness, a step beyond car sickness. This has alleviated it well and has given her a chance to visit with Peter. She found out about Peter’s family, so we have all been pestering him to meet them. We weren’t wangling for an invitation, just an intro, but Grace graciously invited us for lunch. She herself is quite shy; she is also a great cook! We had tasty rice, potatoes, beef and peas in a delicious sauce, so good I ate peas! She brought out the samosas we had bought, which we all tried. Our treat was the jelly roll, which was also delicious.
Ken
Sister Seraphina welcomed us during a busy class session with the students busy making delectable items. They were making cakes or biscuits, which we would call cookies and some sweet rolls with jelly centers, on order from some lucky person.
We were able to buy pasta and ragu (spaghetti sauce) for our dinner tomorrow evening at the Bega kwa Bega apartments. More later.
At the cooking school, Sister Seraphina teaches young women life skills and English. She teaches housekeeping skills and, of course, Italian cooking. She immigrated to Tanzania 48 years ago and has stayed all these years, having taught thousands of girls. They come to the school under contract. That is, in return for her two-year training course, they work for their sponsors for two years (or longer by choice).
We bought some samosas, the real thing, and a jelly roll as well as the pasta and ragu. We thought they might taste good for lunch at Peter and Grace’s home. We bought some of the cookies as well for the party tomorrow evening.
Lunch at Peter’s
Peter is our bus driver. He has been with us every day but one, when he was needed to work on repairing something on the bus. His wife’s name is Grace and daughter is Clara. Grace’s niece Joyce lives with them too because her father died and they have taken her in since Grace’s sister cannot afford to raise her. Clara is seven; I’d guess Joyce is 12 or 13. Both are quite shy.
Judy has been sitting in the front seat next to Peter to reduce bus sickness, a step beyond car sickness. This has alleviated it well and has given her a chance to visit with Peter. She found out about Peter’s family, so we have all been pestering him to meet them. We weren’t wangling for an invitation, just an intro, but Grace graciously invited us for lunch. She herself is quite shy; she is also a great cook! We had tasty rice, potatoes, beef and peas in a delicious sauce, so good I ate peas! She brought out the samosas we had bought, which we all tried. Our treat was the jelly roll, which was also delicious.
Ken
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Home Soon
It is 11 AM Arusha time. We are going to lunch with Mbogo at a different restaurant. We have eaten only at New Safari Hotel while in Arusha. Mbogo is the safari company here in Arusha we have been using as our tour guide. late i the afternoon, we will go to Kilimanjaro Airport for our night flight to Amsterdam and home. Got your message about picking up Mom, Nona and Judy Bev and/or Gail. It is Flt NW 41, 12:45PM.
I have more written, but it will wait until the laptop can connect directly, possibly post-arrival.
Love to all,
Ken
I have more written, but it will wait until the laptop can connect directly, possibly post-arrival.
Love to all,
Ken
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