Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Home

We're home.

We have all our luggage. We got through the customs' Ag inspection with no problem. They hand searched all of our luggage. We did not mention we had cavorted with Mark Jensen in Iringa. Mark and Ibrahim are the directors of the Ag Project at Tumaini.

We are safe and sound and glad to be home, having loved every moment of the trip. Judy's daughter Carmen and grand-daughter, Dan and Julie Rogness, Pastor Will, kids Carly and Chris and sister Bev met us at the airport. It was great!

By all means, be sure to ask to see the photos. Just remember to first ask, "HOW MANY?"

Ken

Arusha and Kilimanjaro International Airport

Generally we all slept well and arose ready to get packed and be gone. Yesterday, minus the Bibis we went on one last shopping trip. The street vendors are impressively aggressive. We bumped into Jean from MGLSS, who told us husband Marv carries 200 TSH coins just to give them so they will go away. As I think of it, the 20 cents is a bargain! She also said that this being the end of the peak season, there would be some bargains available. I dunno....

So, we had breakfast and packed up by 10 AM. We did not know we had paid for late checkout at 5 PM. Oh well, TIA.

Chui (“Leopard” in Swahili) has been our driver the past couple days. He picked us up and delivered us to Pepe, an Italian-Arab restaurant in Arusha. The waiter said we should just stick to the Italian side of the menu. Next time you are in Arusha, I highly recommend eating there. Godwin Mbogo who owns the service met us there and bought us lunch, a very nice treat. He told us about the safari service, the economy, the religion of the Maasai. I would call it nature worship, which I know has a specific name. Regardless, it is quite simple for Maasai to switch to Christianity.

Ultimately, lunch was over. We drove past the new Lutheran Medcial Center, soon to replace Selian, then on to Kilimanjaro. We have few hours to wait before the next to last leg of our trip and home.

Naturally, our thoughts have turned to home and loved ones. We remain hopeful that we will see Sandy’s bag before the next Traveling Pants movie. Who knows? TIA!

Ken

PS We promised the manager of the New Safari Hotel we would do a happy dance when we got the bag back. At Kili International, Sandy went to check - it had arrived! She did the happy dance for us all. And I suppose that “all’s well that ends well”!

Maasai Girls Lutheran Secondary School Graduation


Wow! This was special! And I could add, just as long as it was special. Longer if you don’t know a speck of Swahili, even with our own private translators, each girls who were Form 5 or 6, the step before college entrance.

We arrived about an hour early for the Sunday service, so we had a guided tour of the school. They have a great computer lab and science lab. Some of the girls have never even turned on an electric switch of any kind before they arrive.

Soon we went to the beautiful chapel, the roof in the shape of a Maasai warrior’s shield. We awaited the Bishop. He was actually on campus and we had greeted him. After an hour or so, following the entrance of the choir and with great pageantry, the graduates in their full Maasai regalia marched in, with the bishop equally adorned, including mitre.

There was much singing, a long sermon and the usual two hour service. We loved it.

We ate delicious lunch with other VIP. We ate leisurely, catered to in a special class room, decorated just for us, so we were a little rushed to get to the auditorium (which, as in any good secondary school, doubled as the lunch room). The girls treated us to a rhythmic dance as they entered, with more great singing. There were a few talent numbers with subsets of the girls forming the ensembles, with rhythm and singing. Then there was a long list of awards for various achievements. After the awards, there were six speakers. The bishop spoke a reasonably short time. I thought that was a good sign, since surely it would be bad manners for subordinates to speak longer than he did. But each of the next five speakers spoke longer than the previous.

One highlight, or lowlight, depending on perspective of course, was when my chair collapsed underneath me. There was a silent scramble to rescue me, without a beat missed by the speaker. I was much less sleepy after that.

Finally, the ceremony well celebrated, all went home. I don’t think I can adequately describe the spectacle of the beauty of these people and their costumes, so see the photos!

Ken

Zanzibar and the Mnarani Resort



What a nice diversion from the rest of our journey! We could nearly forget the poverty of Zanzibar and the rest of Tanzania. The resort is on the north end of the island. The tides carry the water a long way out, so we enjoyed both waves crashing on the shore and silence when the tide was out. We could walk far onto the ocean floor and into the shallow surf to frolic and bounce in the waves. Great body surfers we’re not.

The natural aquarium deserves mention. Well, maybe not. The basin is filled through porous rock, so as the tide comes in, the pond fills and vice versa. They had some sea turtles, green turtles I think, vegetarian and hawks bill, omnivorous. The injured turtles and young trapped in fishing nets are rehabilitated and released per a government program. There was a python, small, a mere six feet and a monitor lizard, not even cute, The biology lesson was interesting. Have you ever heard the term “tourist trap”? Fortunately, the other four relaxed on the beach. I wont’ tell you who was taken, but there initials are Bob, Sandy and Ken.

We relaxed and enjoyed the poisons of choice. Bob re-introduced me to Tequila Sunrise, a pleasure long forgotten. The food was fine. We basked in the sun and starlight while we could. Even around a campfire. And drinks with ice. Sigh.

Saturday was a long day. We were picked up right on schedule by Zamir and Suleman. We toured Stone Town and the Anglican Cathedral on the site of the slave auction block. The great explorer, David Livingston, was instrumental in ending slavery in Africa. His heart is buried under a tree and his preserved body was carried to Zanzibar, then transported accompanied by two of his African friends devoted to him. We saw the sights, recorded electronically generously.

After lunch, we headed for the airport, where we were informed, ironically, that we needed some paper document with the e-ticket numbers. Now there’s a paradox. It took an hour and a half of the two we had reserved for the airport, so now we know why! Even our guide showed some nonverbal signs of stress. But we made it! From Zanzibar, a short hop to Dar es Salaam, and a trip around the check-in again to a gate upstairs, then down the steps, onto the tarmac and back on the same plane! It was actually a tight schedule and the plane was waiting for us. Fortunately, our baggage had been checked through. Unfortunately, I was stopped at the last checkpoint.

“Do you have a scissors?” I replied no, of course, Then I remembered my first aid kit. Duh. “You will have to check it.” So I ran to the baggage check-in, pleaded for help (in English). I knew my pack or myself wouldn’t make the flight. I ran back up to the gate, where Birdie was waiting for me. Now neither of us would make it. Fortunately, the attendant said, “They are waiting for you.” The same flight attendant that greeted us onto the plane in Zanzibar said, “Welcome back!”

I wish I could just end the story there, since the flight was uneventful, our guide was waiting at Kilimanjaro airport and we were all glad to be on the ground. But one of our bags did not make it. Surprisingly, it wasn’t my backpack; it was Sandy’s suitcase, with clothes and gifts. Hope for its reappearance is on the wane, since we will leave tomorrow evening. We were thankful to arrive in Arusha safely, at a nice hotel. Sometimes it’s a little thing that bites the hardest.

On being a doctor in a foreign land

On being a doctor in a foreign land.

One of the DIRA staff came to me with a dilemma. His younger brother, from Idunda, has had recurrent abscesses of the scalp every few months for the past eight years. The older brother has a detailed record of the doctors notes each time this has happened, seven or more times in eight years. Some resolve spontaneously. One was large enough to require wide drainage and packing. Still they recur. They have mostly been on the scalp, but have occurred on the face or temple as well. Some have been incised and drained, the treated with a variety of antibiotics, including erythromycin, metronidazole and ciprofloxacin. Typically, when he gets them, they are accompanied by fever and lymphadenopathy. Sometimes he has delirium, sometimes headache with scintillating scotomata. There have been no neuro defects, rare vomiting. He temporarily loses weight which e regains as these improve. Past skull x-rays have showed no periosteal reaction.

On exam, he is alert and ambulatory but uncomfortable. The mass is warm, not hot, but 10 cm in diameter and moderately tender. It is fluctuant but not pointing. It is in the sagittal line. He has small, tender lymph nodes in the posterior cervical chains bilaterally; none in the anterior chains or angle of the jaw. TMs are clear, throat is clear. Speech is clear. Face is symmetrical; biceps, triceps and grip strength are equal.

My differential is limited: this is an abscess. Why the recurrences? He has had at least the three antibiotic course noted. I do not know if he has been checked for HIV or TB, but these are so common here it is hard to imagine they have not been. Could he have some other immune compromise? Seems like a long indolent course for malignancy.

I spoke with Dr.Saga, the Chief of Staff of Ilula. He appreciated my thoughts and himself thought nutrition might explain the recurrences.

After I&D here in Iringa, he was doing well. The attending has offered a referral to Dar es Salaam. But I think Dr. Saga is correct that it is worth anothe shot with antibiotics first and multivitamins.

Here is a dilemma. He lives in Idunda. He is married, has five children, and like most of the people there, has no job and no money to pay for the referral or even antibiotics. for referral, patients like him require an escort to provide supportive care and talk to the doctors. His brother would have to ask for time off. Essentially, the brother was asking for money. At Ilula, they have a charity fund. To avoid fraud, they check on the finances of the patients who say they cannot pay. Thus, when we get home, I will start a fund for use at the discretion of Bega kwa Bega and consultation by Dr. Saga or other medical staff at Ilula. It is all I can think of to do.

Ken

The Cooking School and Lunch at Peter's

Cooking School

Sister Seraphina welcomed us during a busy class session with the students busy making delectable items. They were making cakes or biscuits, which we would call cookies and some sweet rolls with jelly centers, on order from some lucky person.

We were able to buy pasta and ragu (spaghetti sauce) for our dinner tomorrow evening at the Bega kwa Bega apartments. More later.

At the cooking school, Sister Seraphina teaches young women life skills and English. She teaches housekeeping skills and, of course, Italian cooking. She immigrated to Tanzania 48 years ago and has stayed all these years, having taught thousands of girls. They come to the school under contract. That is, in return for her two-year training course, they work for their sponsors for two years (or longer by choice).

We bought some samosas, the real thing, and a jelly roll as well as the pasta and ragu. We thought they might taste good for lunch at Peter and Grace’s home. We bought some of the cookies as well for the party tomorrow evening.

Lunch at Peter’s

Peter is our bus driver. He has been with us every day but one, when he was needed to work on repairing something on the bus. His wife’s name is Grace and daughter is Clara. Grace’s niece Joyce lives with them too because her father died and they have taken her in since Grace’s sister cannot afford to raise her. Clara is seven; I’d guess Joyce is 12 or 13. Both are quite shy.

Judy has been sitting in the front seat next to Peter to reduce bus sickness, a step beyond car sickness. This has alleviated it well and has given her a chance to visit with Peter. She found out about Peter’s family, so we have all been pestering him to meet them. We weren’t wangling for an invitation, just an intro, but Grace graciously invited us for lunch. She herself is quite shy; she is also a great cook! We had tasty rice, potatoes, beef and peas in a delicious sauce, so good I ate peas! She brought out the samosas we had bought, which we all tried. Our treat was the jelly roll, which was also delicious.



Ken

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Home Soon

It is 11 AM Arusha time. We are going to lunch with Mbogo at a different restaurant. We have eaten only at New Safari Hotel while in Arusha. Mbogo is the safari company here in Arusha we have been using as our tour guide. late i the afternoon, we will go to Kilimanjaro Airport for our night flight to Amsterdam and home. Got your message about picking up Mom, Nona and Judy Bev and/or Gail. It is Flt NW 41, 12:45PM.

I have more written, but it will wait until the laptop can connect directly, possibly post-arrival.

Love to all,

Ken

Friday, September 19, 2008

Happy Birthday Carly from Africa with love


That's Will in the background.  Carly is the cute one!

Love, 

Mom and Dad 

You can't drink the water...

butt, butt, butt, but....




Fortunately there is always...

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Pity the Poor Traveler

I have missed a couple days. Despite the American clock being irrelevant in Tanzania, things can move fast. Or not....

We are now heading to Zanzibar for rest and relaxation. We left Iringa Wednesday morning with our planned 90 minute stop at Ruaha Mbyuni. Pastor David Mapepele, my friend who has just finished at Tumaini, starts at his new congregation this week, will graduate in October and be ordained in January, is the son of Dr. Jairhus Mapepele. We arranged this visit in part to discuss what has become a mutual dream. But you cannot discuss the details of a dream of establishing a hospital in 90 minutes. David had written not only the words of his dad detailing the dream, but a minute-by-minute American agenda, adhering to our timeline. There is a Wazungu phrase here that is a common explanation for the way things are. (Wazungu refers to white people. It isn’t really derogatory, depending on inflection.) The phrase is “TIA.” “This is Africa.” Well, TIA.

We ate breakfast at 7 AM before we left the Lutheran Center. That was punctuated by many heartfelt goodbyes and a very nice send off from our new and dear friend Brian Peterson. I am quite sure our paths will cross again, I just don’t know how or when.

The first agenda item at Ruaha Mbyuni was breakfast. It was acheduled 10 to 10:15 AM. Then we were scheduled for lunch at 11:15, so we could leave at 11:30. The schedule started to fall apart quickly, since breakfast took about 40 minutes itself. Exchange of gifts David had scheduled for three minutes, lasted 20. You get the picture. The whole visit was three and a half hours. Birdie put this in perspective for me. We were worried about missing a sunset in Dar. This was a presentation on helping and changing the lives of some 40,000 Tanzanians in the surrounding area.  I guess we could afford the time!

But I do not know what I can really do. I have never attempted to get funding for some project on a grand scale such as this. I committed to do three things. First, I will touch base with Ilula Task Force. I do not want to dilute the efforts they have made in any way. We have 7 of the 85 dispensaries built in the Kilolo district villages. The government’s goal is to have a dispensary in every village. Since Ruaha Mbyuni has a dispensary, it is down the list in priority for expansion. Dr. Mapepele has political connections and pull. So the community support is already there and land has been designated and donated for the new hospital. There is strong potential for a model for the country. Ilula has built up from a single building to multiple buildings.  So I wonder what is the best building plan.

So second, I will find an architect to discuss this with. (Think Paul Dahlberg.) Lastly, I will investigate fund raising for such a project.

We left full, no, stuffed, with food and ambition.

We arrived in Dar. Peter paid a price driving in the dark but got us to our destinations without incident.  We totally missed David’s brother John who was to dine with us. We had a great evening but a short night.  The food at Sea Cliff was again delicious. Peter got us to FPCT. We got up in time to make our flight and are now enjoying a Caribbean-like atmosphere on Zanzibar.  Sunset was beautiful. The moon is nearly full. Food was great. I napped for three hours and am refreshed. You are in the middle of your Thursday afternoon. It is still the same moon over us all. When we awake, it will be Carly’s birthday and we are thinking of all of you, especially our daughter.

A photo or two tomorrow.

Ken

Sandy and Bob

Thursday, 18 Sep 2008

It is always hard to say goodbye and when you have to say goodbye and may never see that person or persons again it is doubly hard.

Our brothers and sisters in Idunda treated us like long lost family members. Sharing abundantly what little food they have and giving a lot in their warm hearts. We were blessed by many villagers adults and children greeting us in song, dance and huge smiles. They are a people isolated in the mountains with no running water or electricity. They farm small plots for food for themselves and walk great distances for supplies and schooling. It is a very hard and difficult life. They seem so happy and content with so little. It was with a heavy heart that we say goodbye but we can’t go until we travel with a rooster and 4 chickens for our Tanzanian friends that traveled with us. As the days go by we keep thinking and praying for the people of Idunda. They will always be in our hearts and thoughts.

We were honored to be able to meet and visit with the Bishop. More goodbyes were said.

We made dinner at Tom Nielsen’s apt for about 20 people. The food, laughter and conversation was great. Again we had goodbye to many new found friends. We also had to say a tearful goodbye to our wonderful guide and lovable friend (soon to be pastor) John. He truly warms our hearts with his smile, kindness and sense of humor. He will always be in our thoughts, hearts and prayers.

After 9 days at the Lutheran center we need to also say goodbye to the wonderful staff who have been most gracious, friendly and helpful to us during our stay. Tom and Dennis from Bega Kwa Bega office and our friend Brian Peterson were on hand to say goodbye and wish us safe journey on our continued travels. There were huge hugs given and pictures taken as a farewell send off.

Peter, our driver, is our last Iringa friend that we said goodbye to. He always got us to where we needed to be in a timely manner under some difficult conditions. As we remember the African roads we will think fondly of Peter. He and his family who we met will always be in our hearts and prayers.

So many people we have met in a short time and so many hard, tearful goodbyes we have made.

Sandy

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Worship at Kihesa, Lunch at Sarah's and Gongilonga









Kihesa

It’s Sunday.  Another opportunity to worship the same God in different languages. The 7 AM service was just letting out when we arrived for the 9 AM service. The choir was out in front singing a beautiful hymn. We enjoyed this as the people passed by. I asked one little girl who looked about 7-8 years old, “Jina lako nani?” in my best Swahili. She responded in impeccable English, “My name is Anna Marie.” “What is your brother’s name?” I asked, “His name is Henry,” The children all learn English in secondary school, but a few, like Anna Marie and Sarah’s children, Nerea, age 9, and Miriam, age 5, learn in primary school.

The service had been full. By 9:15, we went in, but there were sparse attendees. To my surprise, the church was full by about 10. Before the service, one woman from the congregation got up and sang a responsive song. It was beautiful. We joined in as best we could, not understanding most of the words except “Mungu” (God). The ministers came in and the singing switched from spontaneous praise to formal liturgy.

The choir sang again, the congregation, a solo, then the Wazungu choir (us) did our best with “Listen, Listen God is Calling” including the Swahili chorus at the end. The congregation appreciated the Swahili, but listening to the choir was a true treat. They definitely outshine most choirs I have heard!

The evangelist preached. The pastor had preached the first service. The sermon lasted about a half hour, and we were aided by translators, including Peter our driver, John Mhekwa, thankfully our constant companion, and a senior student in Business Administration at Tumaini, Itiweni Samson Luhwago. She was a little shy about it at first, but did a marvelous job.

At the end of the service, the choir recessed from church and sang to the congregation as we did. There were many greetings and handshakes.

Sarah's for Lunch

Immediately after service, we went to Sarah’s home for lunch. She had invited the whole group. We brought an adoptee named Dr. Brian Peterson, from Southern Seminary, who will teach Greek and Gospels at Tumaini when the semester begins next week. Brian graduated from Augustana, Sioux Falls, in 1982. Sarah is the housekeeper at Bega kwa Bega. She does great work managing the apartments and we first became very attached to her when we were here in 2006. She works very hard at her day job and has not had an easy life. She is raising two lovely daughters as I mentioned above. The lunch was delicious, certainly the best outside the Lutheran Centre and Mwagusi and easily equalling them.

Gangilonga

In the afternoon, Bob, Sandy, Judy, Brian Peterson, John and myself left the Bibis and Birdies and walked to, then climbed Gangilonga, a huge boulder that overlooks the entire, long, narrow community of Iringa. It is exhilarating and I did not like looking down the sheer drop. Gail, I don’t think you would like it either. See the photo!  That's a few of us sitting on the edge with Brian Peterson

Brian Peterson


One of the many great things about The Lutheran Center in Iringa is that it is a place where you can meet the most wonderful people – not only the staff at the center, but also those fellow travelers through Tanzania. I had come to Iringa to teach for a term at Tumaini University, but when I arrived I learned that the school’s schedule had been changed, and classes would not begin for 2 weeks. Most of the University was away on vacation, and so I was all alone at the Center, wondering what I would do while I waited in Iringa for two weeks.

Well, in came the group from St. James Lutheran Church. Perhaps it was the sound of that familiar Minnesota accent that caught my attention. And for their part, they probably saw how lonely (and exhausted!) I looked, eating breakfast all by myself. Their invitation to join them was gracious; I mean that not just in the sense that it was polite, but in the deeper sense that it was an embodiment of God’s grace. They took this stranger in, and allowed me to accompany them as they learned about life and the work of the church in Tanzania. Because of their hospitality, and because of the amazing hospitality of the Tanzanians that we have enjoyed, I will hear with new appreciation God’s call to welcome the stranger among us.

Through prayer and song and worship, through listening quietly to one another, through working and caring and laughing together, through sharing our faith in the midst of joy and of struggle, God binds us together in new relationships as the church, and we learn, perhaps more profoundly than ever before, what it means to be the one body of Christ, whether we live in Minnesota, or South Carolina, or Tanzania.


Ed. Note: Brian is a professor at Southern Seminary. He is an Augie grad!  He has been a wonderful addition to our activities.  That's him on the left in the photo.  kpo

Sandy and Bob


We have seen and done so much while in Africa. This is our first time and so many of the things we have seen and done have left a lasting memory. It has been hard to pick a favorite. Somethings like bartering in the market, the African bumpy roads, the beautiful worship services, weddings, safari, the abundant singing and dancing, the choo have all been new experiences.

It is hard not to fall in love with the children and the people. They are so gracious and generous yet have so little. Their smiles warm our hearts. We have met so many people and they all make us feel honored to be with them.

We have been blessed to have been guests in two homes. One was Sara (who works in the Bega Kwa Bega Office) and her two daughters and the other was Peter (our driver) along with his wife, daughter and niece. The meals were very good and the hospitality was overwhelming.

We have taken over 600 pictures already and have only been here two weeks. We will have a wealth of memories to help us remember our African brothers and sisters.

Esther and Nona


Greetings from this far off enchanting land with its beautiful people! Missing all of you, family and friends, but every minute is being filled with precious new acquaintances who quickly become dear friends, but none of you at home are replaced! The safari was unbelievable wonderful but so is all the other events, people and places. Thanks for the emails have had time to retrieve and I apologize for not having replied. Please share this message with my non electronic friends.
With love,
Esther


We have seen and done so many things and we have more new adventures coming up. The African people are so kind and nice to us. Safari was great. If the walking is hard I have my walking stick and many helpful arms and hands to aid me.
God bless!!
Mom Nelsona

PS The photo is Judy, Esther and Nona

Birdie


Greetings from Ken’s first guest blogger! Just wanted to be able to say to someone besides the group here what a marvelous time we are having. The pace started rather fast but we are now are relaxed and taking things in. The Bibis have been great sports and hold their own. Judy is loving the kids and Bob and Sandy are enjoying everything. The trip is completely different from last time but so very wonderful. Can’t wait to tell you all the stories and show you the millions of pictures! Love to you all,
Birdie

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Isimila Stone Age Park




Isimila

Wow! This is a great resource. There are stone age tools here from 400,000 years ago, first discovered here by University of Chicago archeologists in the 1950s. Next year a team from the University in Dar es Salaam will do their first dig here.

Besides interesting tools, the terrain is fabulous. There are tall columns where water and wind have eroded the sandstone leaving them behind. Like sunset, and despite the reasonable quality of the photos, it is impossible to translate the grandeur to film. But I keep trying to do the sunsets anyway.

Ilula

Yesterday we visited the district hospital at Ilula. This has quite a story. It started as a small Dispensary. Through the work of the Ilula Health Task Force of SPAS, especially two dedicated doctors stateside, it has become the district hospital. (I think they understand they would be nowhere without the support of the other members of the task force, however.) They have 60 beds, usually full, and an outpatient clinic as well. They do about one C-section a day for 60,000TSH (about $54USD). They had to transfer patients to Iringa, about 45 minutes away by vehicle, so many women died of ruptured uterus. Since they have had capacity to do the C-sections at Ilula, no women have died of ruptured uterus.

They have a TB ward - all of the TB patients have HIV. They have an HIV Clinic originally established through the Clinton Foundation. The King Foundation is building the nursing school which should be ready by 2010. There is excellent progress on the buildings. (The KF supplies buildings, but not staffing or ongoing expenses, so that will be from an alternative source, such as the government.)

As far as we have come, there is a way to go. We saw the laundry. They hand wash the sheets in two big concrete tubs. They need a washer. However, getting electricity is not as simple as tapping the line at the nearest building and will require a more expensive project (don’t know how much).

Ilula competes with government hospitals too. We lose good personnel to higher salaries and housing on campus. There is room for staff housing, but it needs to be built. Highly educated people can command amenities elsewhere. The dedicated stay out of love for their community, so a potent strategy is to higher from within. In other words, scholarships tied to contracts, essentially what we do in many instances in the states.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Safari at Mwagusi Camp, Ruaha National Park







We have such beautiful animals on this earth! We also have beautiful and exotic lands to see. We got a chance to see a few of the animals: monkeys, baboons, and elephants, not to mention those we saw on safari! The list is long, but I know you are wondering, so: giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, lions (mating - yes, unabashedly mating, and us twenty feet away), impala, greater kudu, a hyena, a lizard, a hyrax, many guinea fowl, cape buffalo, no snakes, no leopards, no cheetah. Rhino are in the north, so none of those. Many beautiful birds, and I gave them names, but they didn’t stick. (Carly, on the way back to Iringa, we did briefly see Jerry.)

We nearly didn’t make it into the park before the gate closed. Our driver Peter had already done yeoman’s service by driving the grueling roads back to Iringa, but we had to do a quick turn-around to get off to Ruaha. We made it. Peter confessed it was the fastest he had made that drive. We waited at the gate for the paperwork to get completed and drove about 45 minutes to Mwagusi Camp. Ya gotta go there!

Dinner was ready when we arrived and our hostess, Charlotte, took us down onto the dry river bed where we feasted in the moon and firelight. We retired to our bandas relaxed and happy.

The bandas were elegant as was the food. I will try broccoli with ginger at home! The next afternoon, we were lounging in our banda after an exhilarating morning on safari when an elephant wandered into camp to say hello. S/he (I know I am biologist but how would I know close up? All I could see was trunk and ears!) strolled by the banda, looked in at us and moved on. Birdie stammered - not her usual, I assure you, “Ken, an elephant.” I rolled out of the hammock without the elephant batting an eyelash, and yes, we were that close, so I could get the camera. Mr/s Elephant nonchalantly took a little taste of the banda roof, posed so I could adjust the settings and focus the camera and Snap!, saved for posterity, if I can find it amongst the 700+ photos I took.

Oh there is so much more to tell. And I think it is safe to say our love of Africa is maturing.

Some personal notes, Bibi Esther was a little under the weather for a couple days, a combination of some mild illness and/or a bit of dehydration with a lot of activity. She is now back to herself and enjoying all. Nona has been solid and so much fun. She said hello to the elephant too. Actually, I think our whole party did. Judy has been enjoying this too. She amongst us is the most widely traveled, I think. Our friends Bob and Sandy are a joy. Bob is an engineer, so we depend on him to get the mechanical things understood. (Like shoring up the bridge to Lutangilo.)  Birdie’s organization and hospitality strengths show through. I am taking it all in.

I hope the photos come through.  I see they did, just not very "artsy."  They take forever to upload, even small files.  The first sun is sunrise, the second, sunset.

Love you all,

Ken

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Idunda

We have been gone for the past four days, two nights in Idunda. It’s about 90 Km from Iringa. It is virtually all dirt-washboard road, so to get there it took us about four hot and dusty hours in two vehicles since the basi (Swahili for bus) couldn’t negotiate it. It was worth it! People lined the little road as we came into town, singing and dancing. To our great surprise and pleasure we got to attend a wedding Saturday afternoon. Now that was amazing! In the evening we danced and sang. The best part was the Idunda choir came to our quarters and sang to us. They serenaded us after we went to bed. There are few Americans who can claim this elite status!

Sunday came early. We had breakfast. The meals were all quite similar, with chicken, pork, rice, beans, potatoes and once pumpkin greens. They served tasty pork and chicken sauces and ugali, the local equivalent to bread (but you would need a much longer explanation on ugali to understand. This is significant because I do not think the Idunda Tanzanians eat this well on a regular basis, yet the showed us their best. Worship was fun! Lots of singing and dancing, five baptisms, and a sermon by me! All in only 2 1/2 hours. The pastor let the congregation off easy since he decided that hearing me preach was enough. I doubt you can imagine either my surprise or panic at finding out I was expected to preach. It went OK. Say a sentence, Pastor Ma ng’ulisi would translate, talk, translate, talk, translate, etc. I said, “Asante sana,” many times. It means “mangen tak.”

They need a dispensary.

During the rainy season, eleven women delivered before they could get to the nearest dispensary, because they could not cross the river. Two of the infants died. Dispensaries have wards where babies are delivered and newborns are attended.

They have a building that can be brought up to standard and a residence for the nurse who runs it. The community is already planning to rebuild the residence, which has a good roof, but needs new exterior walls. For both, they need support for supplies, but will provide sweat equity. It will take 3,000,000 TSH for the rehab of the dispensary, 1,000,000 TSH and 2,000,000 TSH for the required photovoltaic electricity source. This is about $5200 USD. We left heartened and excited that something this significant can be done so inexpensively. Two of Idunda’s form four graduates want to go to nursing school, so they will whet their appetite at Red Cross training for a year, with ambitions to stay in Idunda. Wow! Would that be great!

On Monday morning as we left Idunda, people again lining the road, I had the great joy to see a mother and her daughter a second time. This time, the mother was very happy and the little girl no longer had a cleft lip, having been nicely repaired and well healed. Of all the wondrous things we saw and experienced, this was my peak experience.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Iringa

Wednesday

Wednesday I think. About 7AM, I think. We are in the Amsterdam Airport, Schiphol, I think. That’s what happens with water-boarding, I mean sleep deprivation. The flight was nice, but none of us slept much. We all watched movies. The backs of the seats in the Airbus A330 were equipped with LCD screens.

We have about three hours until flight, so we are camped for awhile until someone gets restless and wants to wander. This is a BIG airport. Eateries and other interesting retail establishments should be opening soon. Napping seems out of the equation with no place conducive to lay down. The low-back chairs are great for sitting, not so for sleeping.

The currency is in euros here, so the exchange is excruciating. A bottle of water is nearly $5, hard to swallow for someone from Minnesota, where clean, fresh water is plentiful and, uh, cheap! Oh, what we take for granted!

For some reason, I am intrigued by the Sahara, particularly its expanse and the many hours it takes to fly over it. Amazing! Perhaps when we reach sub-Saharan Africa we will be able to see Kilimanjaro. Although in 2006, as today, it was cloudy.

It is fascinating to hear so many voices speaking in different languages, wearing non-Western garb, all quite comfortable in this environment.

For entertainment, I am writing this, Nona and Esther wrote in their personal journals and Birdie is writing in the shared journal. Now there are books out and a cribbage game going on. Son Chris supplied two philosophy books to read and I will turn to them next, Deep Thoughts and Deeper Thoughts by Jack Handey.

Seems like a good way to close for now.

Ken

Friday Morning, September 5, 2008

Yesterday was a long travel day to Iringa, but fun! We left a beautiful morning at FPTC, with gorgeous blossoms and shrubs, some familiar like the bougenvilla, many not. On the way to Iringa, we stopped at Chalinze for an enlightening bathroom stop, physicially, culturally and mentally! We did not indulge in the cashews, but next time we will. They are safe because they are roasted. Our bad! Reviewing things that impacted us most included the people, the crowding in the Dar es Salaam, streets lined with “dukas,” little shops, potholed roads (just like MInnesota, not the same reasons), and the animals!

We stopped at the Mikumi Game preserve for lunch. See the menu. Wow! Were there animals! See the picture. We saw tembo, twiga, impala, pumba, punta milia and some nyani or, if you don’t speak Swahili, elephant, giraffe, impala, warthogs, zebra and some baboons. The animals arrived on cue as we began lunch. We took the photo ops. I don’t think they were truly posing - they looked so natural....

We arrived at the Iringa Lutheran Center tired out but exhillarated. The establishment is very nice. It is still plain in its inaugural year and needs nothing but some art. I see the proponents voting for television won out, but that’s the world. Dinner was excellent. We liked the cucumber soup, Tom Nielsen’s favorite. The presentation was as delightful as the food was delicious. And we all slept “lala fo fofo” (like the dead).

This morning we made or plans for the day and trip to Idunda. We will stay over two nights. Then we will come home briefly for a change of clothes and on to our safari.

This afternoon we will sort through the gifts we brought and try to decide what goes where. With this being a tough year here, we will also bring some rice, sugar and tea as gifts to the congregation. We will leave the pencils, crayons and other things at the school at Idete, now named for the founder of the nearby town, at least formally. We still refer to it as Idete School, as does everyone else.

One ugly surprise: I was quite sure we would be asked to sing. John Mhekwa, recent graduate of Tumaini University and our guide informs me we will indeed be expected to sing. Here’s the ugly part. I am expected to preach. Others will introduce themselves and say a few words. I will preach. Hmmm. Well, there’s our dedication to partnership. And that we pray for each other. We are invested in the success of Idunda and want the Dispensary to succeed. Tom Nielsen can give me the text for the day, but maybe I will just resort to my favorite Bible verses. At least I don’t have to deliver it in Swahili. Twiga, pembo and nyani aren’t enough Swahili words to say much. I can throw in rafiki (friend) and pumba somehow, despite having learned both from “The Lion King.” They are still legitimate Swahili, although I wonder if warthog has ever been used in a sermon before. More in a couple days.

I am posting this a 8:45 AM, your time.  It's 4:45 PM here.

Ken

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Off we go!

After months of planning, detailing, fretting, laughing, the day is here. All packed but for the minor flotsam - and a little rearranging to get the poundage just right all around. Finished about 12:30 AM this morning and awoke at 5:30. On the good side, I suppose sleep in the plane on Amsterdam time will come easier. Did I forget anything? Still need to change the cat box and mow the lawn, get a few last, last-minute details accomplished. Like get the bigger bottle of Purel to refill the little ones that will be constantly at our sides.

Took my "Breakfast of Aging Champions," the fistful of pills I take each morning with my banana, this morning, including my anti-malarial. Check. Made coffee. Check. Updated the last electronic bill payment so now everything should be on autopilot while we are away. Check. Make a new list. Check!

I have noticed a couple things on the blog: first, if you want to see Iringa weather, not Hong Kong, click on settings next to Hong Kong. Type in Iringa, click. Select Iringa, Tanzania. It reverts to Hong Kong when you leave the page. I haven't been able to fix that.

If you did not get one of the devotion booklets, try this link:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/5416805/Devotions-Sept-2008

Next post across the ocean I hope: Amsterdam? Tanzania!

Peace,

Ken